from the Atlantic coast to the Mediterranean through the beautiful English Pyrenees between Canyon, waterfalls, forests and meadows.
A brief stop in Sitges, a beautiful mountain village attached to the sea. Touristicization but at the moment still very livable. They say that on Saturday and Sunday is much more chaotic, but we we've come on Thursday and by the way on a bad day!
The next day we had booked at Can Fabes in Sant Celoni, forty miles north of Barcelona.
In truth it was a last resort because, in chronological order, we have not taken or El Bulli, or El Cellar de Can Roca, nor the Sant Pau, nor Esguard.
In the area of \u200b\u200bpluristellati, remained just that.
Honestly I was not too sure why the idea that I am made of Santamaria following items of cuisine is a bit 'cook the same as that field (which most do not even remember the name) who said horns against the plague and only Bottura to make itself heard. Santamaria gave me the same feeling for the controversy that has aroused against Adrià, in fact I think that the stone in the pond throughout the Ambaradan, it has thrown himself.
Because while I have a huge respect for Adrià, at whose table I sat a long, long, long ago, annoyed me to bring "dinero" to denigrate those who want to advertise who I consider a true genius.
Then, talking to Manuel, we decided to try the same, because, first of all, the three stars had been given, then, to be able to speak, for better or worse, I think first we must try.
Since there was a possibility, we booked a table in the kitchen.
Since the trade, we thought we could better appreciate the dishes if we follow the way of preparation. But I will talk about this later.
The table is located at the entrance of the kitchen but a bit limited by the walls forming the corners and therefore do not give full view of the kitchen, you see only the finish of the bench and part of the kitchen.
is a table big enough for four person, is two, however, would give back to the kitchen, they also sell it for 6, but in my view, would be close.
The seat is a bench fastened to the wall and therefore a bit 'awkward, especially if you wanted to approach the table. The table is also quite breadth of the problems that led to the service officer as a waitress at our table was not exactly high-kicks and we had quite a bit.
For the kitchen table is a drop set for all guests.
We start with an appetizer, small pieces of different tapas, including very good memory, covered with a black olive fried grain, a master's Pimiento fried, and a Cantabrian Anchovies served with an emulsion of oil and herbs, really impressive.
Then, Crema de judias with escalunas y chick. A bean cream, cold, with chopped scallions and a morsel of "chick", just like the one in Viareggio. Pleasant enough, but little intriguing. Following
Ravioli de gambas al aceite de ceps. Shrimp and mushrooms, is not a new combination, I remember eating them in 1979 by Gennaro at Livorno. However, the dish is well done, shrimp cut in half and stuffed with mushrooms sauteed in olive oil. Excellent raw material.
Ensalada de melon, Almendras tiernas y Sardinas. Large dish, the sweetness of white melon, bitter almonds, the fat of sardines, marinated in olive oil and lemon. A succession of sensations on the palate, very charming and persistent.
Tartare de pescado, mariscos y Citricos. A tartare in the form of multi-layer pudding. Under the Fish, unidentified, in the middle of the seafood and citrus above ground. Good dish, balanced and clear the contrast between the flavors. Both separately and in "ensemble" gives full satisfaction to the palate. Pan de
steamed vegetables, tuetano Trufa y de verano. Flat strange: the "bread" made with chopped vegetables and then "mixed" with some thickener (as its proponents, I think of a natural thickener) and then steamed, was unsatisfactory, the flavors of the vegetables incomprehensible and therefore not identified . The predominant flavor with "fat" was more "Grease" from the bone and the summer truffle, I'm sorry, but ....
"Puagra llora" al horno, baked Russola, that is, good, but it is a dish from the restaurant!
Cigalas with polenta, as above, with regard to the pairing. For the polenta, it is better that the "Nordic" is not the test. Nothing to do with what goes on in their heads. A creamy sauce with corn flour blanched and tasteless.
"Espardenyes de Blanes y tocino, in Italian are the sea cucumbers, served with roasted bacon Fiam. Bell'abbinamento, sea and land in two different textures and temperatures.
Escorpora with calabacines tiernos, the combination seafood and vegetables back to recur, as things now that you've seen before. Raw material, redfish and zucchini, excellent as always, but .... Foie gras
cocido in the braze with chutney de Plata. I like the foie gras in every way, it goes without saying that I liked a lot. The remarkable cooking technique, for the foie gras the grill is very difficult to use. Excellent pairing with the banana. Instead of looking for the contrast effect followed the sweet without becoming cloying.
Cordero Montseny, y berenjenas zanahorias caraway. Carrots and eggplant in the pan and flavored work, the right, with cumin, acted as a background to a really great lamb, fat and well cooked, I ate at the Caveau stratospheric reminiscent of the theater of Pontremoli, the origin of Zeri.
Quesos fabes, a selection of cheeses from home. Presented as one of the best choices of Spain, for me it lacked some gems, like the goat Lazos and "Bleu" Cabrales Asturias. But they tasted great.
Panacotta with granizado de miel, a panna cotta covered with honey baked the "Catalan". Too simple.
Sopa de coco y pina Melocoton with. A fruit salad, very good, but always a salad.
Petit fours. This still remember this because I will talk about the next episode.
A plate of black glass on which there were four samples of pastries, very good except for one which seemed polystyrene. It reminded me of that white bow in the U.S. are stuck in a toothpick and then set fire. Bho!
beverage: a bottle of mineral water, tap water (supply), a glass of Cava Can Fabes Especial (offered), a bottle of Cuvée Santamaria white. Wine produced by the chef who has bought a vineyard in Penedes, really impressive, went to all meals, two glasses of red Cuvée Santamaria (offered). From the same plot, good too. The Penedes is giving more and more good fruit. Two glasses of Victoria Ordonez Moscatel (offered).
Before this: The kitchen table, apart from the broader menu, there's no choice. The most uncomfortable chairs, service and nothing more awkward than engaging in almost all preparations are made in areas that are not seen from the table.
Second Consideration: The kitchen is traditional, well-executed, but nothing really extraordinary, that plate is missing the "good return", the one that would trigger the spring to return to visit the restaurant.
Third Consideration: about the dispute with Adrià, if you visit his site, you will notice that he also used products "chemical", the only difference is that indicators on the site, but not on the menu!
Fourth Consideration: The service, apart from the Maitre d 'and sommelier, really good, prepared and available, I do not think the level of a three-star Michelin Man.
Finally, I do not think we'll be back! Hello
Stefano
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